Interviewed by Helen
One of the best-known names in pin-up photography in the UK is undoubtedly Tony Rusecki – or Tony Nylons as he now calls himself. He of The Casting Couch, whose work will be familiar to you if you’ve looked through the galleries on this site, or seen the photos he’s done for vintage-style lingerie label What Katie Did.
It was his work for What Katie Did that first made me aware of what Tony can do with a camera. Lingerie websites often look like sleazy lads’ mags but What Katie Did avoids all this, with the site's signature vintage-style pin-up and burlesque look.
Tony has worked as a professional photographer for ten years, producing mainstream images as well as the vintage-style ones with which he’s made his name. "It wasn't something which suddenly happened. I was very keen on photography when I was in my teens but never took it further. After uni I went into corporate IT sales but hated it. Photography became a hobby again, which led me to being first a part-time photographer then full-time. Along the way I realised it was my last chance to change careers to something I loved doing." Although his images are vintage-style, he uses digital cameras. “I have to admit I miss the days of film; it was great to be able to develop your own film and print them in a darkroom but things move on and I just don't think shooting on film is viable anymore.” Being involved in the retro scene, Tony "became more aware of the work by the pin-up artists of the 50s. I started experimenting with how to mix the artistic quality of a pin-up illustration with photography." Technically, this would seem to be not only capturing the colours and lighting, but also working with the models to achieve the classic pin-up poses and expressions, with weird and wonderful props and sets along the way.
His photographic influences are "the Vogue photographers from the 50s like Phillipe Halsman. More recent photographers I really like are Ellen Von Unwerth, Guido Argentini and Elmer Batters." Film also has an influence. Despite 1950s film The Girl Can't Help It having that intensity of colour which also features in Tony's photography and makes them so quintessentially vintage-style, that particular film isn't amongst Tony's favourites. "It looked more like a promo film for as many bands as you can fit into one film. I would say I was more influenced by films with Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly. Quite recently I got into the Avengers series from the 60s. I found it particularly interesting the way they could develop a theme for each episode on a very small budget." The vivid colours of those films and tv shows can be seen in Tony's work, and also perhaps his love of wacky props - I can only wonder what Tony would do if he could lay his hands on Audrey Hepburn's bath-sofa from Breakfast at Tiffany's.
Recently, Tony moved The Casting Couch from the fondly-named ‘cave’ in a windowless basement in Acton to Alfie’s Antique market in Marylebone. A place that you’ll know if you have your hair done at Nina’s Vintage Hair Salon – Nina moved into Alfie’s in 2008. “I felt that moving to Alfie’s would provide a much more interesting experience than just having some photos done. Alfie’s is a great place to visit as there's some really good vintage clothing boutiques, antique dealers and a nice cafe with an outdoor rooftop terrace. But the main reason is that it meant I could team up with Nina by getting people ready in her Vintage Hair Salon.”
Tony’s previous studio was littered with props and sets - the ‘ship’ which appeared in lots of photos is a cardboard tube used for carpet with rigging made from bondage rope. “A lot of my inspiration has come from Burlesque performers; whereas there are a couple of performers like Dita Von Teese and Immodesty Blaize who can afford expensive custom-made props, most are getting paid next to nothing and have to learn how to be resourceful and adapt bits and pieces into something else." The giant dice were real, not Photoshop creations, and tottered in a pile next to an aeroplane interior, which Tony had bought on Ebay. He would set up a corner of the studio in a particular style – for example, the 1940s house interior which you can see here and here, and also in several photos on What Katie Did for the Blackout range and their fully-fashioned stockings. The ‘walls’ were covered in vintage-style wallpaper, and furniture could be changed to go from a sitting room to a bedroom, and it did very much give the illusion that the photos were taken in a real house. Now in Alfie’s, Tony still has a lot of the props but he “misses the extra space and the workshop feel where I could make little sets. There is still scope for creating sets but I'd probably have to do it in another part of Alfie’s. I think if someone came to me looking to do some pictures in a set I'd look at doing the shoot somewhere else altogether.” Creative people need to be challenged, so while Tony in the past coped with ‘the cave’ by being spurred on to make sets as if he worked for the National Theatre, it’ll be great to see what he comes up with in his new environment, with the opportunities that it offers.
There is a great sense of fun in Tony's photos, with bright colours and props, which is missing in contemporary photography which is so often po-faced and serious. And the element of fun is important during the shoots as well, which is no doubt what comes across in the photos. "It's important for the model to be having fun and being relaxed. While the poses are staged and exaggerated, it's important the model feels comfortable with what she's doing otherwise it just looks wrong." Tony will pose himself in pin-up style for the model to copy, or will put on a pair of lady’s sunglasses to demonstrate how to remove them in a pin-up way.
So how did he come to work with Katie for What Katie Did? "I met Katie at a weekend event called Rhythm Riot. Then a little while later I needed some nylon stockings for another shoot I was doing so I contacted her. She needed someone to shoot her stuff on a continual basis and I need someone willing to lend stuff for projects I was working on so it was a perfect match." Tony has an "emergency What Katie Did kit" - a collection of bullet bras and suspender clips, which he can whisk out in a second for any model having a wardrobe crisis at a shoot.
Tony created the 2008 pin-up calendar for What Katie Did. It was something he’d “wanted to do for a while” and the plan was to “end up with is 12 outstanding images where each one somehow ties in with the month it represents, which actually isn't that easy as what differentiates July from August?” And then he brought out a set of playing cards in conjunction with What Katie Did, as well as making small films to go on Youtube of girls putting on their corsets and stockings, with a bit of spanking. He's also got some other projects on the boil at the moment too - "I'd like to develop more images into stories along the lines of the Jane strip series as well as shoot a mini-movie. Ultimately I'd like to shoot enough material so I can get a book published in two years or so."
Tony loves 40s and 50s dance, which he will do round the studio during a shoot because he evidently has trouble keeping still. So he likes going to places that play this music, as well as burlesque shows and fetish clubs, which perhaps explains why some of his photos show rubber wear done vintage style. "I get easily bored of going too often to the same place. I like the 100 Club on Mondays as I like dancing to 40s and 50s music. It's nice because it still has a jazz club feel to it and there's always new people as well as people I know. I also go to Lady Luck, the Bethnal Green Working Mens Club depending on what's on, Volupte Lounge and occasionally Torture Garden. My favourite is probably the Flash Monkey as it has a bit of everything and after the Burlesque show you can dance to 1950s music." He's also met some of the models he uses at these events, such as the implausibly long-legged Maz.
At the 2008 Rhythm Riot, Tony set up shop and offered photo shoots. “This was my first time at Rhythm Riot so a bit experimental as I wasn't sure what to expect. It wasn't too bad as all the people I photographed were really good fun to work with. Also for this time I only took a limited number of bookings as I was aware that Natasha, who did the hair and make-up, wanted to enjoy the entertainment. For next year I want to do it on a much larger scale and will budget to take an assistant with me as well as separate hair stylist and make-up artists.”
Keen to expand his audience, Tony created Nylon Flash, which is “a sort of club for people interested in retro glamour. Members receive a bi-monthly printed newsletter. As well as images, the newsletter features articles and details of forthcoming events. It's very much in its infancy so I'm not quite sure which direction it will take.”
Burlesque celebrity Immodesty Blaize chose Tony to take some photos of her. "While she's got a big reputation and while some people would expect her to be some sort of Diva, she's actually a very nice and down to earth person. She chose me because she knew I had a good understanding of the pin-up style as I had taken photos for her corset designer, Miss Katie."
Having been on the burlesque scene for a while, what does Tony make of its recent surge in popularity? "To be honest I used to prefer the scene when not many people knew about it as it attracted a more genuine and interesting crowd. I think the way it's going it soon may be regarded as tacky which won't be a bad thing as afterwards the people who will remain following it will be the more passionate ones." And what about that Ministry of Burlesque nomination? "I was surprised I was nominated for the award as I don't consider myself to be a Burlesque photographer. I do occasionally take my camera to events like Flash Monkey but that's as a favour to the organisers who I know quite well. It was nice none the less to be invited to go to the event as it gave me the chance to catch up with some friends who were there."
Any girl who fancies being a pin-up can book a session with Tony. "Basically she gets a chance to be a pin-up model for half a day which includes having her hair and make-up done professionally. After the session, she eventually ends up with approx 4-6 images in a variety of styles to show to her friends and have as a keepsake of the day."
And so... what's next for The Casting Couch? "To replace the sofa with a couch."
Special Offer! A shoot with Tony usually costs £125, but mention Pin-Up Parade when you book and get the cost of your shoot discounted to £95. Please note that you will need to pay Nina separately for hair and make-up - this usually comes to about £80.
All photos on this page copyright Tony Nylons except for the behind the scenes shot (by Eightball).
All clothing on this page (except behind the scenes) available from www.whatkatiedid.com
Red & cream and white wedge sandals by www.rocketoriginals.co.uk
www.ninasvintageandretrohair.com
See more of Tony's photos in the Pin-Up Parade galleries: Ella d'Beau, Helen Highwater, Miss K, Jacquelyn Simone, Fleur de Guerre, Sarah Kate, Miss Loula Cherry & Violet Van Tassel.